~~~ I want to buy a katana. Give me knowledge. ~~~

**Nesterus** · 07-27-2009, 09:13 PM

I have been practicing a few katas with the heavy heavy wooden bokken

**drizztix** · 07-27-2009, 09:14 PM

Originally Posted by Nesterus

I have been practicing a few katas with the heavy heavy wooden bokken

aye the absolute best way to build up grip strength and Popeye forearms

**xXMidnightXx** · 07-28-2009, 04:19 AM

Also this is just to add on to Drizztx but when you start talking true swordsmanship as opposed to functionality, there are different qualities you can look for. If you just want to be an idiot and cut stuff, go to a pawn shop buy one cane style ones for 50-100 bucks, it will be worth it if you realize its still a weapon. It has no guard whatsoever and can easily cause you serious damage if your not paying attention. These are factory done and work great on watermelons and stupid things that would be insulting to a real blade.

When you start talking bare minimum for decent quality its in the 1-2k range. By decent quality I mean it wont break on the first swing if your not an idiot about it and think you can cut through a telephone pole like in the movies. This is also the time where you start getting into somewhat personalized details where the size and length of the blade and handle are going to come into play.

If you talk quality blades that are functional, balanced, done by hand, and are usually beautiful to look at because of the artistry of the sword smith, then you are looking into the 8-15k range. These are usually always folded, and you have to know your ranges for metal hardness. This was mentioned earlier so I wont go into it very much, just know that there is a certain level of hardness for the back and front that must maintain a proper ratio. Most sellers know this already, but it helps if you understand the basics.

If you are talking QUALITY as in Master Smith, Historical, Functional and Dependable. You go into the 25-100k Range. These blades should be treated with the utmost respect, and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy them if they don't understand the Japanese way of thinking. I also wouldn't recommend buying them if you don't know the proper way to polish or care.

This is side section, but I suggest if you are getting something of higher quality then the factory made one. Also buy a tool kit and polish/repair set, that is very important to its length of use as well as respect to the maker of the sword.

**drizztix** · 07-28-2009, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by xXMidnightXx

Also this is just to add on to Drizztx but when you start talking true swordsmanship as opposed to functionality, there are different qualities you can look for. If you just want to be an idiot and cut stuff, go to a pawn shop buy one cane style ones for 50-100 bucks, it will be worth it if you realize its still a weapon. It has no guard whatsoever and can easily cause you serious damage if your not paying attention. These are factory done and work great on watermelons and stupid things that would be insulting to a real blade.

When you start talking bare minimum for decent quality its in the 1-2k range. By decent quality I mean it wont break on the first swing if your not an idiot about it and think you can cut through a telephone pole like in the movies. This is also the time where you start getting into somewhat personalized details where the size and length of the blade and handle are going to come into play.

If you talk quality blades that are functional, balanced, done by hand, and are usually beautiful to look at because of the artistry of the sword smith, then you are looking into the 8-15k range. These are usually always folded, and you have to know your ranges for metal hardness. This was mentioned earlier so I wont go into it very much, just know that there is a certain level of hardness for the back and front that must maintain a proper ratio. Most sellers know this already, but it helps if you understand the basics.

If you are talking QUALITY as in Master Smith, Historical, Functional and Dependable. You go into the 25-100k Range. These blades should be treated with the utmost respect, and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy them if they don't understand the Japanese way of thinking. I also wouldn't recommend buying them if you don't know the proper way to polish or care.

This is side section, but I suggest if you are getting something of higher quality then the factory made one. Also buy a tool kit and polish/repair set, that is very important to its length of use as well as respect to the maker of the sword.

usually if the sword is forged by a renowned Smith w/ historical backing you wont be able to purchase a blade from them unless you have a certian japanese lineage so thats pretty much outta the Q.. and where are you finding your 8-15k swords? i have seen some amazing hand crafted blades and hardly ever to they break the 5k range..

also any sword over 800$usd will ALWAYS be folded steel.. i have never seen a sword over 800 that wasnt folded steel since that is WHAT makes the price difference (your paying for labor)

**~~Knuckles~~** · 07-28-2009, 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by xXMidnightXx

Also this is just to add on to Drizztx but when you start talking true swordsmanship as opposed to functionality, there are different qualities you can look for. If you just want to be an idiot and cut stuff, go to a pawn shop buy one cane style ones for 50-100 bucks, it will be worth it if you realize its still a weapon. It has no guard whatsoever and can easily cause you serious damage if your not paying attention. These are factory done and work great on watermelons and stupid things that would be insulting to a real blade.

When you start talking bare minimum for decent quality its in the 1-2k range. By decent quality I mean it wont break on the first swing if your not an idiot about it and think you can cut through a telephone pole like in the movies. This is also the time where you start getting into somewhat personalized details where the size and length of the blade and handle are going to come into play.

If you talk quality blades that are functional, balanced, done by hand, and are usually beautiful to look at because of the artistry of the sword smith, then you are looking into the 8-15k range. These are usually always folded, and you have to know your ranges for metal hardness. This was mentioned earlier so I wont go into it very much, just know that there is a certain level of hardness for the back and front that must maintain a proper ratio. Most sellers know this already, but it helps if you understand the basics.

If you are talking QUALITY as in Master Smith, Historical, Functional and Dependable. You go into the 25-100k Range. These blades should be treated with the utmost respect, and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy them if they don't understand the Japanese way of thinking. I also wouldn't recommend buying them if you don't know the proper way to polish or care.

This is side section, but I suggest if you are getting something of higher quality then the factory made one. Also buy a tool kit and polish/repair set, that is very important to its length of use as well as respect to the maker of the sword.

this post smells funny.

Nice read Driz. I used to be into swords.

**Edu** · 07-28-2009, 10:15 AM

Originally Posted by Knuckles

this post smells funny.

Nice read Driz. I used to be into swords.

Well better that than that swords used to be into you, right?

**drizztix** · 07-28-2009, 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by Knuckles

this post smells funny.

Nice read Driz. I used to be into swords.

how.. does text.. emit aroma?!

and thanks.. i grew up watching "AMERICAN NINJA" and "CONAN" lol and i thought...
MAN.. when i grow up .. i wanna be a BUFF BARBARIC NINJA!...

**Harok** · 07-28-2009, 10:32 AM

You people with swords.... *shudder*

**drizztix** · 07-28-2009, 10:41 AM

Originally Posted by Harok

You people with swords.... *shudder*

you know wats funny.. is when ever i order a sword (like real deal swords) the company ALWAYS has the package set to "Signiture of 21yr old or OLDER required)so gay... like i was ordering a fire'arm off the net

also i used to frequent alot of "Sword/katana Forums" but most of the people on those forums are retarded parrots that do nothing but repeat the same krap over n' over to sound cool.. (and most of the garbage they spew is anime related) like HOW COME I CANT USE MY BANKAI YET?!

then after much more digging i found tons of posts about ACCIDENT REPORTS.. i was amazed at how many people would go straight into using a shinken instead of a bokken or iaito to start training ... and one kid severed an artery and few others ended up damn near losing a finger..

Anywho.. heres a sample clip of the style (version of iaido) that i train
Epic Iaido Demo/Sample CLICK ME its an oldie but a goodie
(plz ignore the horrific musice the tact onto this demo)

**Heraclius** · 07-28-2009, 11:01 AM

I can't really help you with Katanas, or provide an expert opinion on any swords because I'm just getting into them. I purchased a Venetian Longsword out of some Museum replicas company and have been practicing with it. Amazing I have yet to hurt myself, but I can't use the weapon very well because it is nearly as large as I am!

I'm more interested in Medieval weaponry than Japanese, so I could use some advice there as well. I'm planning for my next buy to be a short or broadsword, but I really don't know what to look for in them.